Haveli Todar Mal

Haveli Todar Mal รีวิว, Sirhind

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Madhulika L
Noida, อินเดีย3,848 ผลงาน
มิ.ย. ค.ศ. 2019 • ครอบครัว
Considering Sirhind’s importance as a Mughal city, and one where Akbar even stayed on occasion, it’s natural for most people to assume that the ‘Todar Mal’ after whom this haveli is named was the ‘Raja Todar Mal’ who was Akbar’s financial expert and one of the nau ratna (the ‘nine jewels’) of Akbar’s court.

Not so. This Diwan Todar Mal was a very different man. In 1705, Guru Gobind Singh’s two young sons, Sahibzada Zorawar Singh and Sahibzada Fateh Singh—then only 8 years and 6 years old respectively—were martyred at the orders of the governor of Sirhind, Wazir Khan, by being bricked up alive. Diwan Todar Mal bought this piece of land from a local landlord at what is supposed to be an astronomical sum, to create space for the two young martyrs (and their grandmother, Mata Gujri, who was also killed along with them) to be cremated. The story goes that the stipulation for the price of the land was that Diwan Todar Mal could take as much land as he could cover with gold mohurs: the estimate is that he spent at least 7,800 gold mohurs on the land.

Todar Mal’s haveli is supposedly under the aegis of the SGPC, and while there is a (very easily missable) sign in Gurmukhi, there’s nothing at all in a more universal language—English or Hindi, for example—that might explain to the non-Gurmukhi reading public about the history of this place.

The haveli is a three-storeyed building made of brick and stone, now sadly in utter ruin. You have to park your car at the head of a very short but dusty lane and then walk to the haveli. Before the haveli itself is something that looks like a dug-out tank with ‘islands’ of brick in them (could this have been a sort of pavilion surrounded by water? I don’t know).

The haveli itself is even more ruined. We could not summon up the courage to enter: it seems some renovation has been attempted, because some sections of crumbling bricks were held together by steel staples! This looked terribly unsafe, so we just saw the haveli from the outside and then went back.

Entry is free here, but visit only if you’re a diehard history buff and don’t mind seeing ruins.
เขียนเมื่อ 31 กรกฎาคม ค.ศ. 2019
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